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Lundi 6 juillet 2009
Buenas dias!

We are presently in Quito, the capital city of Ecuador. Tomorrow we will say goodbye to South America and fly to Central America, in Nicaragua. Ecuador was the last country visited in this (3 months & 3 weeks) trip on the continent. Coming from Peru, we crossed by bus the south of the country, which is basically a big field of bananas, and reached Guayaquil, Ecuador's largest city. We took immediately another bus to go to the pacific coast and to visit the great Machalilla national park, staying in the nearby village of Puerto Lopez for 5 days. Then we went to Quito, where we enjoyed spending time in the old town, and also couchsurfed last weekend in the suburb city of Tumbago. In Ecuador, people are very friendly, even if once again (it's such a shame!) they don't really care about the planet... Let's discover together this small country...

PUERTO LOPEZ

Puerto Lopez is one of the dirtiest town I've ever seen (the people just throw everything in the streets...), but paradoxically it's situated close to the paradisiac Machalilla national park and its pristine beaches, just 10 kilometers away. It's incredible (and shocking) to observe the difference, and also the indifference of the ecuadorian about their own environment. They  simply don't mind walking in dirty streets, and even litter at the local beach. Ugly...

We were lucky to find a good room in the family guesthouse of Dannita, a nice and considerate woman, who was with her husband very kind to us. The guesthouse was located in the non-touristic part of the city, but close to the center though. And cheaper of course! The only interests of being in Puerto Lopez were to watch the pelicans playing with the waves, or trying to steal fresh fishes when the fishermen were coming back from the ocean... And also, as I said above, its proximity to the Machalilla national park.





EL PARQUE NACIONAL MACHALILLA

So you understood that I was disappointed by the disturbing town of Puerto Lopez. Fortunately the beauty and the wildlife of the Machalilla national park was purely contrasting with this big disappointment. I booked a tour (no other choice) to go to the "Isla de la Plata", 40km from the coast, and the daydream started... On the way, we stopped for one good reason: we saw a 15 meters whale not only surfacing, but jumping almost completely out of the water!!! I was not quickly enough to take a pic, but that was awesome!!! Actually the male was not swimming alone, but with a female.  According to our guide, his weigh was about 40 tons! We followed them during half an hour, gazing at one of the most exciting wildlife show of the planet. The boats were respecting a sufficient safety distance, to avoid perturbing their love dance. Indeed, the "ballenas jorobadas" come each year from Antartica to mate in the pacific ocean warm waters. I had already the chance to watch whales in Quebec a few years ago (Tadoussac bay), but this time we were closer and the weather was better. I was so happy... my only regret was that I wasn't allowed to go and dive with the whales... but the day surprises were only beginning...




After one hour and a half of crossing, we landed on the island and hiked almost 3 hours to observe the abundant and amazing wildlife. We first met some blue-feet birds ("piqueros de patas azules") and watched them nesting, taking care of their babies or dancing to seduce each other. They were so cute when dancing, moving their blue feet and their wings in a ancestral secret rythm, while whistling and screaming in some strange ways.




The Silver island, which was by the past a pirate haven, is kwown as the little Galapagos. As going a few days in the Galapagos costs about 1000 euros, and a daytour in the Silver island only 32$, the choice was easy to make... We continued our expedition on the island and met plenty of red-throated frigates ("fregatas rojas"), flying above our heads or just chilling in the trees. We also watched the males blowing their red throat to impress the females: it seems that every species have its own habits...




Near of some beautiful cliffs, we then met the white cousins of the blue-feet birds, who were also nesting and feeding their babies. They were fearless about human beings walking around, but of course we tried to be as quiet as possible. It was great to have the opportunity of observing their social behaviours in this peaceful but windy island, without having the feeling of disturbing them in any way.





From the cliffs, we started to retrace our steps, using some steep stairs to come back to the boat . The vegetation on the island (dry forest) only consists of trees (some of them aromatic) and bushes. The island turns green only 3 months per year, from january to march. After a light lunch of fresh fruits, we went by boat to a little creek where we snorkeled 45 minutes in a ocean of tropical colourful fishes! It was even not necessary to have a waterproof camera, you could take a pic of them from the boat! Once again amazing!



After all those interesting discoveries (and some well-deserved tuna sandwiches), we started the road back to the mainland, but only 15 minutes later, suddenly, the captain screamed happily and took the opposite direction. We were wondering if he was allright or turning insane, but we quickly understood the reason of his strange behaviour. In a few seconds, the boat was completely surrounded by hundreds of dolphins!!! During 20 minutes, they carried on swimmimg, playing, jumping around us... Unbelievable!!! Magic moments...



To enter the Machalilla national park, you have to pay a 20$ entrance fee, valid for 5 days, and not only for the Silver island. So the next day I went hiking on the mainland to discover its unspoiled beaches. I hiked for 4 hours through the dry forest and the sandy beaches, and met only 4 other people! I went swimming naked several times, walked barefoot to the tops of some hills to get nice points of view, and enjoyed lying on the sand thinking how lucky I am...






The third day, I took a cheap local taxi to go to the village of "El Pital", starting point of a nature hike in the tropical humid forest of "El Bola de Oro", also located in the Machalilla national park. The vegetation was G-R-E-E-N all around,  the forest full of birds and colourful lizzards, and I heard some howler monkeys screaming even if I didn't see them. I tried not to get lost, and that wasn't easy cause the trail was poorly marked. Fortunately a local guy riding a horse helped me to find my way back...







QUITO

We left Puerto Lopez, and after a 12 hours journey by bus, we reached at night Quito, the ecuadorian capital. Thanks to some helpful policemen, we found certainly the cheapest and best located hotel of the city (Residencia Sucre, 5$ per night for a double room). In the heart of the old town, it was an excellent base to explore Quito with a nice view on the San Francisco square. See below!





We stayed 2 days in Quito, and this time, we didn't feel breathless as we usually do in big cities. At an altitude of 2850m, surrounded by green hills, with colonial buildings, streets going up and down, nice churches and lovely squares, we even enjoyed being there. I visited the "Basilica del Voto Nacional" and literally climbed to the top of the 78 meters high clock towers, using steep stairs and crazy ladders, to get a deadly (scary!) view over the town. I sat down half an hour staring at the city, feeling like the hunchback of Notre-Dame, and discovered that the gargoyles were actually statues of birds I 've seen a few days before on the Silver island...







Yes, It was definitely nice to stroll around the streets of Quito. The main square, the cultural center with its impressive library (and cheap internet access), the bakeries, the people, the good weather too were the ingredients of 2 pleasant days. And the city was clean, surely due to a good urban waste management, but also to the good habits of the "quiteños" - people living in Quito...





I found out that a guided visit of the presidential palace was for free, so I took advantage of it of course! During 40 minutes, I discovered the "Palacio del Gobierno" main rooms, including the dining hall, the meeting room where the president took the important decisions for the country with his ministers, and the yellow room with the portrait gallery of the ecuadorian presidents. The lustres were from France and the chairs from Spain. Funny detail: at the beginning of the visit, a photograph take a picture of you in the patio, and you receive it at the end of the visit as a souvenir...








The last morning before leaving, we visited with Vladi the interesting "Monasterio de Santa Catalina", full of religious and gore paintings depicting the struggle beetween good and evil. The 20 nuns living in the monastery have only half an hour per day after lunch to talk to each other... They spend their time equally beetween work, prayers and sleep, and make all kind of natural products (cream, medicines, soap...). In Quito you'll find a lot of churches and monasteries, they are almost everywhere in the old town...



To end our trip in south America, we were hosted for the weekend by Margarita in the suburb city of Tumbaco. We went together to the cinema, shared every lunch and dinner, and met all her family on sunday to celebrate the birthday of her son Alejandro. Margarita was a great host, so friendly and thoughtfull, and Alejandro a clever young man very mature for his age. We felt at home for 3 nights in her lovely house with the huge garden, the 2 dogs and the cat! Thank you so much Margarita! You're what couchsurfing is all about...




We didn´t stay a long time in Ecuador, but I loved this small country, despite of this extremely bad habit of littering everywhere... The Machalilla national park is truly a gem for lovers of wildlife and nature, and the city of Quito a cultural and historical experience not to be missed. Moreover, with its friendly people, Ecuador desserves your visit (and also mine once again to discover the highlands, the Cotopaxi volcano and the Amazon basin...). But after 110 days (and something like 15000km!)  in South America, it's time for us to fly to new adventures in Central America... We just heard about the "coup d'état" in Honduras, but don't worry, for now we are flying to the neighbour country of Nicaragua, and we will avoid Honduras if it seems to be too dangerous... Un abrazo! Hasta Luego!



IN FRENCH FOR THEO

Salut Théo! On est en Equateur, mais on part demain pour le Nicaragua, un pays en Amérique Centrale. Sur la carte ci-dessus, tu peux voir tout le trajet parcouru en Amérique du Sud: 15000km en 110jours! Pas mal, hein? L'Equateur, on y a seulement passé 10 jours, et j'ai surtout aimé la côte pacifique et le parc national Machalilla:  j'ai vu des baleines, des dauphins, des oiseaux avec des pattes bleues ou d'énormes gorges rouge vif... Délire! En plus, des forêts humides et des belles plages pour se baigner... Cool, non? J'ai aussi visité Quito, la Capitale et rencontré plein de gens sympa ici. Mais les gens en Equateur ont un gros défaut (comme en Bolivie ou au Pérou, même pire!): ils jettent leurs papiers, bouteilles de coca et plein d'autres trucs - voire carrément leurs poubelles - dans les rues des villes et dans la nature. Ils sont fous! J'espére que toi tu ne jettes des choses qu´à la poubelle... C'est important de préserver notre belle planète. Pendant le tour du monde, j'ai la chance de visiter beaucoup d'endroits magnifiques, mais je me demande s'ils seront toujours aussi beaux si je reviens dans quelques années... A la vitesse où les hommes polluent j'en doute malheureusement... Alors je compte sur toi pour dire à tes copains ce qu'il faut faire et ne pas faire, OK? Bonnes vacances d'été mon p'tit filleul adoré! Bisous!


Par D.F - Publié dans : WORLD TRIP - Communauté : Tour du Monde
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Dimanche 28 juin 2009
¡Buenas tardes amigos! ¿Que tal?

Vladi & I are now in the north of Peru, and we will enter Ecuador tomorrow! We spent almost 3 weeks in the land of the Incas and have discovered Cuzco, the sacred valley, the world famous Machu Picchu and the mountains of the "Cordillera Blanca". We took plenty of buses to cross the country from south to north, hiked a lot, and for the first time even walked a 4 days trek with some fellow french travelers! Below is the first picture I took in Peru... actually it was the shooting place of a french movie called "Le Grand Bleu"... Welcome to this beautiful country!


CUZCO, LA ANTIGUA CAPITAL DEL IMPERIO INCA

From Copacabana (BOLIVIA), we took a direct bus to Cuzco, a nice city surrounded by moutains. The first night we shared a taxi with other travelers and stayed in a noisy backpacker, but then for 2 nights more Vladi found the best double room of the town! TV, private bathroom, fantastic view and friendly owners, for 6€ per night! Youhou! We strolled around the cobbled streets, gazed at the old churches and houses, and had our "almuerzo" (lunch) and "cena" (dinner) everyday in the open market  or in the cheap local eateries. We also randomly met Alberto, an italian couchsurfer we knew in La Paz! The world is so small...





Cuzco is the historic capital of the Inca empire, and one of the oldest city continually unhabited. You can still see old Inca walls in different parts of the town, and most of the churches are built over former Inca buildings. In Cuzco we also heard about the crash of the Rio de Janeiro-Paris plane thanks to the local newspaper... Bad luck for these poor people... But don´t worry for Vladi and I, who are traveling around the world and taking a lot of planes... It´s still the safest way of traveling, better than bolivian buses I can tell you!!!




EL VALLE SAGRADO : EL MACHU PICCHU & LAS AGUAS TERMALES DE SANTA TERESA

After a few peaceful days, we left Cuzco to explore the sacred valley and reach the long-awaited Machu Picchu. If you want to visit it one day, the paragraph below may be interesting for you...

How much most of the tourists pay to visit the Machu Picchu?

1º) Train from Cuzco to Aguas Calientes : 80€ aller/retour
2º) Bus from Aguas Calientes to the Machu Picchu : 11€ aller/retour
3º) Machu Picchu entrance fee : 30€
TOTAL = 121€/person

How did David & Vladi manage to do it cheaply?
1º) Bus from Cuzco to Santa Maria : 8€ aller/retour
2º) "Collectivo" (minibus) from Santa Maria to Santa Teresa : 3€ aller/retour
3º) Local taxi from Santa Teresa to Hydroelectrica : 1€ aller/retour
4º) 3 hours hike from Hydroelectrica to Aguas Calientes : free
5º) 1h20 hike from Aguas Calientes to the Machu Picchu : free
6º) Half-price entrance fee thanks to fake ISIC student cards : 15€
TOTAL = 27€/person

Now you understand the difference beetween tourists and travelers, don´t you?




In the bus from Cuzco to Santa Maria (departure 08.30am), Vladi was sick to death and suffered from vomiting during 5 hours and a half: the road was full of dangerous bends and rised up at 4300m. Then fortunately it was better in the minibus and  the taxi. We arrived in Hydroelectrica at 16.30pm, and started to walk on the railway towards Aguas Calientes. It was soon too dark to see the sceneries around, and we had to use our headlights. Under the moonlight, we walked for a while with a brazilian guy who looked like "Forrest Gump" with his huge beard. We had sometimes to move away from the railway to avoid getting run over by the trains!!! After 3 hours, we reached the village of Aguas Calientes, found a cheap hotel and both fell asleep in a few seconds after a quick dinner...

We rested one day more in Aguas Calientes, taking advantage of our comfy room and of the nearby hot springs. The next day, we woke up at 03.30am, drank a coffee and started our hike to the Machu Picchu at 04.00am. Another french couple, Jean-Noël & Jane, left the hotel at the same time and we got to know each other better on the road. It was completely dark around and we followed the very steep path (well, "stairs" is more precise) wIth our headlights. We were almost the first to arrive at 05.20am, and we waited in a huge state of excitement in front of the entrance until 06.00am. I was the 7th guy to enter the Machu Picchu on that day!!! At last, we entered this awesome archeological site and believe me, we were not disappointed at all...






Since I was a teenager, I was willing to see the Machu Picchu. I had a strange feeling being there, like a kind of achievement. I guess it´s possible to categorize the travelers: there are those who have seen the Machu Picchu, and the others! In any case, my vivid imagination started to work as soon as I entered the inca citadel! After the sunrise, we walked through the well-preserved ruins and went to the main viewpoint, at the house of the caretaker. Then Jane, Jean-Noël and I hiked to the top of the Wayna Picchu, the mountain behind the Machu Picchu, while Vladi took a nap under the sunrays. It was there also very steep, and the stairs so narrow... But we made it in one hour, to enjoy an incredible view: yes, the white spot you see on the mountain below is the Macchu Picchu!




I really couldn´t stop to walk here and there to see every part of this awesome human construction, located at 2430m on a mountain ridge above the Urubamba valley. The Incas started building it around 1430 but was abandoned as an official site for the Inca rulers a hundred years later at the time of the spanish conquest of the empire. Although known locally, it was largely unknown to the outside world before being brought to international attention in 1911 by Hiram Bingham, an american historian.





In the Inca citadel lives an unknown number of "vizcachas", a strange (but so cute) animal, something beetween the squirrel, the rabbit and the rat. They appeared suddenly at the end of the afternoon, more exactly at the beginning of the sunset. It reminded me of the "dassies" of Namibia and South Africa. From dusk till dawn, we have lived a full day in the Machu Picchu, and every minute was brilliant! Go and visit it, don´t content yourself with those pics, it´s really worth it!







Finally, we were almost thrown out by the guardians! It was hard to leave but the mind (and the camera!) full of pictures, we started to go down the stairs back to Aguas Calientes. Good bye Machu Picchu, it was a real pleasure meeting you!



As I told you, we didn´t really see the road and the landscapes beetween Hydroelectrica and Aguas Calientes because of the darkness. But while coming back, we enjoyed the path nearly as much as the Machu Picchu itself! Imagine yourself walking along the river, on the railway, under a beautiful weather, almost alone, in a wonderful vegetation...







For a moment, I really thought I was in the movie "Jurassic Park". Wild mountains, high cliffs, wild plants, nice butterflies, perfumed flowers... but fortunately no Tyrannosaurus Rex! Vladi and I were like in the paradise on earth, if you except our heavy backpacks of course...








We managed to come back to Hydroelectrica without any problems, then take a collectivo to Santa Teresa. We were greatly advised by Jane & Jean-Noël, and visited the thermal waters of Cocalmayo, only half an hour walk away from Santa Teresa. We arrived in the afternoon, camped there and took advantage of the hot springs during the night, and all the next morning until noon! By the way, let me introduce you to our new tent "Doite", a famous brand of South America for outdoor activities.





The thermal waters are divided into several pools, hot showers and bathes. Diving and swimming in the crystal-clear hot waters was delicious, the hardest part was just to succeed in leaving them... Oh, and I forgot to tell you I was bitten 43 times on my arms while putting up the tent, by some awful black and yellow little flies... Grrr...





LIMA

We went back to Cuzco with a more rapid bus, and Vladi was not sick on the crazy roads this time. Then we took a direct bus (22 hours) to Lima, the capital of Peru, where we couchsurfed at David´s place in the southern suburb of San Juan de Miraflores. David was very kind and helpful, thanks to him I tasted the "chicha morada" (a purple corn based-drink) and learnt a lot about Peru. Che, a guy from South Korea, was hosted by David at the same time. We all went for a day visiting Lima, including the marvelous city hall library. I wish I had the same library in my house later. OK I  agree, I must stop dreaming...






A few days ago, we met randomly Jane (the french girl we knew at the Machu Picchu) in Cuzco and fixed a time to meet again at the "Plaza de Armas" in Lima. So we found each other again and visited the San Francisco monastery and its claustrophobic catacombs, then had lunch all together with David and Che. And before leaving our new french friends, we planned with them to do the 4 days Santa Cruz trek in the mountains near Huaraz. So a new meeting point 2 days later was carefully chosen! We then came back to David's house to watch a soccer game beetween Peru and Colombia, and to share some cold beers...




Lima is not a what we can call a beautiful city. The city center is Europe away from home, but the suburbs are ugly, and the weather grey and misty 8 months per year... Add a lot of pollution, traffic-jam, noise... Beurk! We were happy to leave! Fortunately we spent those 2 days with great people, so everything was fine.


HUARAZ Y LA CORDILLERA BLANCA (SANTA CRUZ TREK)

We arrived in Huaraz one day before Jane & Jean-Noël to choose a good hotel and a safe place to let most of our belongings. Indeed, don´t think we were about to hike for 4 days with our backpacks full! We fortunately made them as light as possible, to keep a good mood during the trip. J & J, more experienced than us, purchased the necessary food
and brought their little bottled gas and trekkers stuffs. We met in the morning, bought our tickets at the national park headquarters office, then took a bus to Caraz and a shared taxi to Cashapampa, starting point of our adventure.

DAY 1: from 2900m to 3500m, walking time 02h30
We started walking at 14.30pm in a narrow valley, and the path was steep right from the start. Actually we went up all the time. As the sun began to hide behind the mountains, we found a nice flat place to camp on the riverbank, with a little cave ready to provide shelter to light a fire. We spent a nice evening in this unspoiled nature place, under the stars, chatting about our respective travels while eating some chinese noodles.





DAY 2: from 3500m to 4200m, walking time 04h30
We woke up slowly, took our breakfast (coffee, tea, bread and strawberry jam) and started hiking at 10.00am. The path along the river was at the beginning easier than the previous day. We had a break for lunch (delicious home-made "pâté de foie" by Jane, bread, cucumbers and red peppers) at 14.00pm in a nice forest, and enjoyed the company of a curious cow. We continued while the weather turned bad, first very cloudy then a little bit rainy, and the path also turned bad (slippery and steep)...






We choosed to stop at 16.00pm to put up the tents, and we were lucky enough to watch the sun coming back. The camp was surrounded by snow-covered mountains, and the valley just awesome. We found a cave (again!) and were happy to be close to the campfire while eating our heavy "pasta con pesto". The night was very cold, and we were shivering in the tents. Actually the temperature went beyond 0ºC that night, which is not surpristing at an altitude of 4200m, and we didn´t sleep very well...



DAY 3: from 4200m to 4760m, then to 3800m, walking time 06h00
In the early morning, the tent was frozen (only outside fortunately!) in some parts! Brrr... But Vladi and I were happy to have slept in this new tent, more solid and warm than the previous one. Still, despite of the cold weather, I felt very good when going out of the tent: it´s not everyday that you wake up in a scenery like this...


The mission of the day was to reach the Punta Union Pass at 4760m. So we slowly but surely started the ascent, chewing coca leaves and taking deep breathes. The wonderful landscapes around helped us to make it to the top (in 02h30), where we were rewarded with even more spectacular sceneries in every direction! Actually this place is said to have the best view of the Andes... I can confirm now... Really fantastic...







At the top we took a long break to enjoy the view and rest our old bones (!) under the sun. We ate some snacks (apples, dried fruits, chocolate) and took dozens of pictures. What a great feeling to be at the top of a mountain at 4760m, to breathe some fresh air surrounded by some of the highest mountains of the world (+6000m)...



The descent was also impressive: altitude lakes, changing sceneries, different vegetation, rivers, little waterfalls, cute caterpillars... The weather was turning very cloudy, but only in the mountainside we were coming from! So lucky once again! So we kept on walking down towards the sunny valleys, which seemed to be waiting for us. The path was a little bit exhausting for the knees, but who cares? We stopped for lunch at 13.30pm, and the bad weather caught up with us. We wore back our warm sweaters, and continued the descent until 16.30pm.






Once again we camped in a beautiful and peaceful place. The peruvian cows are certainly the most curious cows in the world. They were all the time coming close to us and to the tents! Maybe they were just friendly? Once, Jean-Noël helped one cow who had a little cactus stuck in her nose... Maybe they wanted to thank us? After 3 days, I also decided to take a bath in the river, but... no way!!! The water was too cold, and I only washed my hands and my face... Like every night, we lighted a campfire, but we didn´t last long in front of it because we were too tired. We all slept like marmots, lulled by the music of the nearby river...





DAY 4: from 3800m to 3500m, then to 3850m, walking time 03h00
The night before, we planned to wake up at 07.00am. Actually we woke up late and left only at 09.00am! On this last day, we started with 2 hours of "flat or going down" paths, meeting semi-wild horses, cows, and sheeps on the way. The valley was a piece of paradise, and we also hiked through some nice little villages, where life is peaceful all year long. The kind of place I would love to live in later...











For the last hour of the last morning hike, a winding road and a steep path led us to the village of Vaqueria. It was like a last test from the Cordillera Blanca on our physical abilities! But we made it! We bought some beers to celebrate our success and this unbelievable Santa Cruz trek, and ate with a huge appetite all the remaining food (mainly bread, tuna , red peppers and mayonnaise!!!). At 01.00pm, we took a 3 hours minibus to Yungay, and the road was like the final fireworks of this great adventure: we saw the highest peaks of the area, including the Huascaran (6768m), and the turquoise laguna of Llanganuco. At last, another collectivo drove us back to Huaraz at the end of the afternoon. End of the trip... Pfiou...




Back in Huaraz, we rested 2 days in our comfortable hotel. I took some pictures around the "mercado central", so as to let you appreciate a little bit the peruvian way of life.You can see below a small taxi (the driver is on a moped), and some women selling vegetables on the street. In Peru, as in Bolivia, a lot of people try to make a living by selling fruits, veggies, bread, cheese, but also DVDs, teethbrushes, clothes, sweets... well almost everything possible on the street!




Vladi also enjoyed having a room at the rooftop of the hotel. After washing the clothes (4kg!), she indeed had a good place to let them dry. It was also pleasant to take the breakfast under the sun with such a good view of the city and the mountains around. And, we can confess it... we also enjoyed watching TV for a few hours (Vive TV5monde pour le journal de France 2!)...


From Huaraz, we took yesterday a night bus (10 hours) to Trujillo, and carried on with a 3 hours and a half bus to Chiclayo. I am now in a cybercafé in this town, and we will in a few hours take another (8 hours) night bus to Tumbes, at the border with Ecuador. We are a little bit running out of time in South America, cause our flight from Quito to Central America is on the 30th of June. So we are now going straight to Ecuador!!!

As a conclusion, Peru was another great country to visit. Of course the Machu Picchu comes first to my mind. So much beauty and history in one place! But we had really some good surprises going through the country: the Urubamba valley, the Santa Teresa hot springs, the Cordillera Blanca... My only advice will be, as usual: come and see it yourself! See you later for some more news of our world trip!!!

IN FRENCH FOR THEO

Salut Théo!
Un p´tit coucou en direct du Nord du Pérou! Dans ce joli pays (si tu exceptes les ordures que les gens balancent un peu n´importe où, quel dommage...), Vladi et moi nous avons visité le célèbre Machu Picchu, dont tu as pu voir les photos dans cet article. C´était génial de se ballader dans cette ancienne cité Inca, on se demande quand même comment ils ont fait a l´époque pour amener ces énormes blocs de pierre au somment de la montagne... On a aussi eu la chance de se baigner dans des sources d´eau chaude à Santa Teresa, ça fait plaisir! Enfin, nous avons fait un trek de 4 jours dans la Cordillera Blanca: 4 jours de randonnée entre 3000 et 4800 mètres d´altitude, entourés de montagnes aux sommets enneigées, dont la plupart culminent à plus de 6000 mètres!!! Le soir, les feux de camp pour se réchauffer étaient obligatoires, et la nuit dans les tentes, ça caille mon filleul!!! Un jour, il faudra qu´on aille camper ensemble quelques jours, ça te branche? Maman m´a envoyé des photos de la fête de l'école, sympa ton déguisement d'indien! J´aime beaucoup la photo où tu poses avec tes 3 copains, tous déguisés. Vous êtes trop mignons... Je pars dans quelques heures en bus pour le dernier pays que je vais visiter en Amérique du Sud: l'Equateur. Bientôt les vacances pour toi, COOL!!! Profite bien cet été, embrasse tout le monde à la maison, et à plus dans le bus... PARRAIN.

Par D.F - Publié dans : WORLD TRIP - Communauté : Tour du Monde
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Lundi 18 mai 2009
Hi everybody!

Yes, we are still alive!!! After 3 amazing weeks in Bolivia, we are now in Cuzco, Peru. In a few days, Vladi and I will celebrate our 7 years of wedding (and also our 7 months of journey) at the world famous Machu Picchu!!! But let me first tell you the love story beetween us and Bolivia, definitely our favourite country so far in South America...

3 DIAS EN EL DESIERTO DE SUD LIPEZ

From San Pedro de Atacama (CHILE), we booked a 3 days tour in south Bolivia for 80 euros, to cross the South Lipez desert and reach the city of Uyuni. With fellow travelmates from France, Japan, Australia and Italy, we started in a truck this awesome trip by the discovery of some lagunas (laguna blanca, laguna verde) and of the Licancabur volcano...






We stopped on our way at some hot springs, where only the brave (me included of course!) had a relaxing hot bath before a good lunch. A few kilometers later, we arrived at the suprising geysers "Sol de Mañana".  A mud bath was not possible unfortunately, unless if you wanted to get burnt at third degree... It was really a strange and unusual place in the middle of the desert...





Jumping in the truck again, we reached the incredible "laguna colorada". Here my camera was unable to seize the beauty of this natural scenery, but my eyes could. You can guess the colours on the pics below, but this natural wonder really deserves your visit... I hope one day you´ll come here and witness the show with your own eyes...




The first night (altitude = 4500m), we slept in a very old dormitory and it was goddam cold!!! Vladi and I decided to sleep in the same tiny bed, under 6 heavy blankets to warm our bodies. We could almost not breathe... But we did survived, and so Timothée (it´s him below playing the "charango", a traditionnal music instrument of Bolivia) and the others did. So after the breakfast, we had to wait cause we were about to change the vehicles for the 2 last days of the trip. Apparently the truck had a problem, so we ended up in 2 four-wheelers with 2 new and antipathic guides... Well, well, well... The sceneries were fortunately still amazing: we enjoyed the "arbol de pierda", some new lagunas, then we stopped in a small village to have lunch and take a nap. The rest of the afternoon was a long ride through the desert, with a stop in another "pueblo" (village). For the second night, we were more lucky and slept in an hotel with heat and hot showers... Ouf!









On the third day, we (at last) reached the wonderful "Salar de Uyuni", a huge white stretch of salt, where we took funny mind-altering pictures, and hiked on the fish island (Isla del Pescado), surrounded by hundred-year-old cactus... Bolivia has certainly much to offer... The Uyuni salar is actually a former sea: when the sea slowly disappeared, a thick layer of salt remained... Another amazing place! We also quickly visited a former salt hotel (yes, everything made of salt!), then arrived at Uyuni where we enjoyed a delicious pizza!!! Back in the civilization!!!














TUPIZA

We spent only one night in Uyuni, and left early in the morning to catch a bus to Tupiza, the bolivian far-west. We rested there 4 days (the Uyuni trip was really exhausting!), and discovered how cheap Bolivia is. Guess the cost of a lunch including a soup with bread, a main dish (rice, french fries, veggies and meat) and a fruit... 1€!!! A night in a hotel in a double room... 6€!!! (later in Copacabana, we even stayed in a cheap hotel for 1.50€ for 2 per night!). We of course avoided as usual the tourist restaurants, and ate in the local eateries and markets... Tupiza has some interesting colourful mountains in the surroundings, and we hiked one day in a valley to get closer to them. But mostly this stop was a nice introduction to the country, its people and its food. The beginning of a love story...








POTOSI

We choosed to vist the city of Potosi on our way to the capital city of Bolivia, La Paz. We were thinking at first to stop there for 2 days, but finally stayed 4 days! Potosi had some mountains which were in the past full of silver. Thousand of men (mostly slaves and indigenuous people) died in the mines to extract the precious metal, and Potosi was once the richest city in South America. I visited the very interesting "casa de la moneda", where were manufactured the silver coins and ingots. Now in Potosi, a thousand of men are still destroying their health and working into hell to extract some minerals...







Potosi is now a nice city to visit, with plenty of old buildings, churches, houses and innumerable "plazas". We continued here a food marathon, trying to taste different dishes every day. The bolivian cuisine is not very various, but I liked it: milaneza de carne, picante de pollo, salchipapa (the local "frites-saucisses", perfect for my sister Marie!), empenadas, sopas... Bolivian people seems to love brass bands too: we were randomly at the right place at the right moment to enjoy a school celebration with a contest of brass bands from Uyuni, Sucre and Potosi. Great! At last, most of bolivian women are dressed in a traditionnal and beautiful way, with colourful clothes, nice dresses and lovely hats. Vladi quickly adopted their way of carrying things (and even babies) by buying the same cloth, as  you will see later...





LA PAZ

Remember I told you we were chewing coca leaves to fight against the altitude ache? Here is a picture of some of our stock. In buses or while walking, we tried to chew them each day and it helped! You can also see under the leaves the cloth Vladi bought in a market a few days ago... Beautiful, isn´t it?


From Potosi, we took another cheap bus to reach La Paz (altitude = 3600m), where we were hosted by a great bolivian couchsurfer, Ronald. He welcame us in his big house in the southeast suburb of "Achumani", where we had a room and a bathroom for ourselves! We also met at his place Alberto, a cool fellow traveler from Italy, and Stephanie from Quebec for a couchsurfing dinner prepared by Vladi: veggies pies, salad and wine! Yummy! The next day, Alberto cooked some mean "tagliatelles carbonara" and a delicious risotto! And later Ronald a spicy meal of his own and an amazing tiramisu as well! We stayed 5 days in Ronald´s house and enjoyed his company a lot. He gave us all we need to enjoy our time there: map of the city, useful tips, a wonderful and comfy house... But above all his friendship! We went together in La Paz to some good places and markets he knows. He also helped me a lot to improve my spanish! Muchas gracias Ronald, eres un tipo genial, me gusté mucho conocerte, estoy seguro que vamos a encontrarnos de nuevo, tal vez en Belgica despues de nuestro viaje por el mundo... Hasta luego amigo!




With Alberto, Vladi and I went for a small hike an afternoon to the "moon valley" close to La Paz. Interesting and odd rock formations, under a sunny weather, as usual since we arrived in the north of Argentina. But beware of the cactus!!!




So La Paz was a good stop, but mostly thanks to our new friend Ronald. It´s still a big city swarming with people and crazy minibus and taxi drivers though. Pollution and noise. Horns all the time. By the way, I had to tell you that unfortunately, bolivian people are not the ecology champions... They just don´t care about environmental issues, and litter almost everywhere... Shame! I think they are even worst than african people...The country needs a huge campaign to raise public awareness, but I guess they have other concerns for now... It´s really a pity!



 LAGO TITICACA: COPACABANA Y LA ISLA DEL SOL

3 hours of bus from La Paz, we arrived on the Titicaca Lake shores, in the small city of Copacabana. A nice cathedral, a nice view from the hills surrounding the town, and a nice little harbour to reach the lake north islands. Also as I already told you the cheapest hotel of our trip so far: 1.50euros!!!







Thanks to the information of our "Lonely Planet", we did a phenomenal 17km trek from Copacabana to Yampupata, visiting some floating islands and hiking through wild sceneries. We had lunch on one of the islands: we picked  some fresh trouts in a net in the lake, then some women cooked them for us with rice and vegetables.  We took a short but delicious nap afterwards, listening to the little waves of the "lago Titicaca". Hard life, we know!










As usual, we met a dog while hiking and as usual he followed us for kilometers, acting as he was our pet for ages! Once again, when we found a micro (little bus) to come back to Copacabana, he wanted to get into the bus to stay with us. We felt like abandoning him when we left... We really have a problem with dogs: we love them so much that they can feel it, and so they love us too! Good luck my friend!


The day after this trek, we took the boat to the island of the sun, which was the birth place of the sun for the Incas. We stayed 3 nights on this lovely island (one in the north, in the Challampapa village, two in the south), and visited the Chincana ruins, where the Inca legend creation started. Now 5000 people live on the island. No roads, no cars. The noises you hear are only made by donkeys, lamas, sheeps, pigs, chicken, cats and dogs. Plus the lake waves, and the wind. Well, just the kind of place I´m really fond of. I loved it! The first day, we hiked in the northern part, the best for me, look at the pics!







The second day, we woke up late, then started the path through the island on the ridgeline of the hills to reach the village of Yumani. We stopped one hour to drink a well-deserved beer, taking advantage of the good weather. Hi hi! Hard life, we already know! Once arrived in Yumani, we discovered a cute little village, and the idyllic "escalera del inca". We found a sunny double room for 5 euros per night, in an "alojamiento" runned by a nice woman who also cooked for us a few times. Most of the tourists come on the island in the morning, rush off their feet to cross the island and catch the afternoon boat back to Copacabana. Instead of following the herd, we stayed more and took our time to communicate with the locals and feel the islanders everyday-life.






The third day, we hiked in the south to the Pilko Kaina ruins, then off the beaten path where we had to climb in some parts. But we enjoyed the peacefulness so much! Vladi came back to the village, while I continued my random walk along some high cliffs, then going down to some beaches on a very steep (kind of) path. I got a litlle bit lost, actually the walk was longer than I first thought! I stopped to rest for a while and met Angél, a friendly bolivian guy living in a small house on the island. We talked during one hour about life in Bolivia and travels. For us european people it´s so easy to travel, but for bolivian people it´s almost impossible due to their low currency. Moreover, the french passport and nationality are also very good to travel the world. So lucky we are! Then I finished my day-hike "climbing" the steep (again!) path back to Yumani.






When I arrived at our hotel "chez l´habitant", Vladi was playing with some kids, actually the niece and nephew of our host. While their parents work in La Paz, making a living, David and Mariana live on the island with their aunt. They were very proud to show us their out of use toys, and happy to play with us. Mariana even tried Vladi´s sunglasses and posed like a moviestar, with her cute red cheekbones! So cute, so cute!


You certainly understood that we loved those 3 days on the "Isla del Sol". Like always, we just love being on islands. In Africa, the islands on the Malawi Lake are one of our best souvenirs. A few years ago, we also loved Guadeloupe, and La Reunion. In Central America, we had a great time on the panamean "Isla Bastimientos". And soon, we will go the "Isla Utila" in Honduras, and of course to French Polynesia! Youhou!!! But for now, we are in Peru! See you later for some news, amigos!



IN FRENCH FOR THEO

Salut filleul! Dis merci à maman de ma part pour les dernières photos qu´elles m´a envoyées, OK? J´ai pu te voir lors du tournoi de foot, et aussi découvrir les belles lunettes d´Eléa, cool. Je suis maintenant dans un nouveau pays, le Pérou, et dans quelques jours je vais découvrir le Machu Picchu, tu sais la citadelle des incas perdue dans les montagnes. Cet article du blog te parle de la Bolivie, notre pays préféré en Amérique du Sud jusqu´à maintenant. C´était vraiment génial: volcans, geysers, lagunes colorées, sources d´eau chaude, le salar d´Uyuni (les grandes étendues blanches que tu vois sur certaines photos, c´est du sel!), le lac Titicaca (drole de nom, hein?) et l´ile du soleil... J´ai encore vu plein de beaux paysages! Ici, la vie n´est pas du tout chère pour nous européens, c´est à cause de la différence de monnaie. 1 euro = 9 bolivianos. En fait ici tu peux manger une soupe + un plat principal + un fruit pour juste un euro. Mais beaucoup de gens sont pauvres en Bolivie, les enfants n´ont pas de jouets et travaillent souvent très jeunes pour aider leurs parents. Encore une fois, on peut s´estimer heureux, c´est une des leçons du tour du monde. Toi car tu as beaucoup de jouets, tu as de belles tenues de foot, tu manges bien tous les jours. Moi car je peux voyager autour du monde, car j´ai gagné beaucoup d´argent en France avant de partir. Par exemple un bolivien, meme s´il travaille toute sa vie, ne pourra pas faire un voyage comme le mien. La vie est parfois injuste, n´est-ce pas? Bon c´est pas tout ça, il est tard et je vais aller manger un bout. Des bisous à toute la famille comme d´hab. A plus Théo! Parrain.

Par D.F - Publié dans : WORLD TRIP - Communauté : Tour du Monde
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Vendredi 15 mai 2009
Salut les amis! Bonjour Papa, maman, frero, soeurette! Salut Tonton JP! Comment ca va Sam? Hakim? Hello couchsurfing friends!!! Hola todos!

We are now in the south of Bolivia, and it´s great!!!


From the northwest of Argentina, 2 weeks ago, we decided with Vladi to make a short trip in Chile in the Atacama desert, before to go and visit Bolivia. So we took a 10 hours bus from Salta to reach the village of San Pedro de Atacama...

 

SAN PEDRO DE ATACAMA

 

San Pedro (altitude 244Om) was our unique stop in Chile. To come here, the bus from Argentina went through roads sometimes higher than 5000m! At the border (4300m), Vladi and I were both feeling strange, like floating without energy. Actually Vladi was feeling more sick than strange, and had to breathe some pure oxygene to avoid collapsing... To feel better, we bought some coca leaves and started chewing them (the locals told us it helps fighting against the altitude sickness). With a high altitude, you have to move slowly, breath deeply, as well as sleeping a lot and eating less. A new experience for us and a lesson learned!



 

In San Pedro de Atacama, we stayed in a camping ("Los Perales") with basic facilities. During the day, the temperatures were OK. But the nights were very cold (4-5°C) and we were shivering in our thin sleeping bags. We spent 4 days there and unfortunately the last night our tent, which was already facing several problems (holes, torn parts...), simply died! In fact, it was not possible to close it anymore, and we finished this difficult night almost frozen. In the morning I just threw the poor tent in a garbage before to leave...

 


If you avoid the touristic city center (plenty of travel agencies), San Pedro is a nice village. Dusty streets & small houses. Dozens of dogs taking naps everywhere. A real oasis in the middle of the Atacama desert. But what we really enjoyed were the nearby "Valle de la muerte, Quebrada del Diablo y Valle de la Luna"...

 

VALLE DE LA MUERTE

 

To reach this amazing nature place, we only had to hike 6km (one way) from the village. Vladi and I were like kids in a desertic playground. It seemed we were the only ones to hike (and to avoid the expensive touristic tours). The death valley was beautiful, with interesting rocks, sand dunes (where some crazy guys were snowboarding!) and a nice view from the top of the surrounding hills, including the Licancabur volcano in the distance. Great trip!



 

 


VALLE DE LA LUNA

 

This valley was even more impressive! Located 16km away from San Pedro, we rented some bikes and rode against a strong wind to finally reach it. We stopped a first time to explore a cave with headlights, then a second time in the middle of the valley to enjoy the spectacular views.

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At the end of the afternoon,  I went alone hiking to the top of a sand dune, to watch the sunset over the valley. Unforgettable! With the daylight going down, then under a friendly full moon, we came back to the village tired (as a matter of fact, the pedal of my bike got broken 3km before San Pedro) but happy...

 

 

 

 

QUEBRADA DEL DIABLO

 

Here first I have to tell you the story of a little puppy dog we almost adopted for a few days in San Pedro. Vladi was giving some milk to the cats of the camping, when he suddenly appeared to claim his part. Then he immediately became our dog, sleeping around our tent at night (well, inside the tent the last night!) and always walking with us in the streets of San Pedro. When I went hiking to the Devil's Gorge, he came with me, sat down at the exit of the village, and a few hours later was still there to welcome me, jumping everywhere, full of happiness! When we left San Pedro, he even wanted to come into the bus... Oh God we were so sad... Good luck in your dog's life, "Saucisse" (that's the name we gave him)!!!

 

 

So I went hiking to the Devil's Gorge, but actually I found the surroundings more interesting: a beautiful valley with a little river, a forgotten "ghost" village and some wonderful mountains. And as a gift to reward me, I watched on my way back an awesome moonrise over a former volcano. Vladi and I spent our last evening chatting with Kurt, a german guy who's traveling in South America in a fantastic truck. Nice encounter!

 


 

 

 

 


Well, as you have maybe guessed, our 4 days in the Atacama desert were once again amazing. But believe me or not, it was nothing compares to the 3 days trip through southern Bolivia we were about to experience... See you soon!

 

IN FRENCH FOR THEO

 

Yo Théo! Comment ça va? Moi j'ai la pêche! Actuellement, je me repose avec Vladi dans un village du sud de la Bolivie: Tupiza. Les photos que tu vois dans cet article ont été prises au Chili, dans un desert qui s'appelle Atacama. J'y ai randonné à pied et à vélo dans la poussière et le sable, dans des paysages une nouvelle fois extraordinaires. Par moment je me croyais vraiment sur la lune, comme un cosmonaute! Avec Vladi, on a fait du camping dans un petit village (San Pedro) mais malheureusement la tente s'est définitivement cassée la dernière nuit, et on a eu très froid. T'inquiètes, on a survécu! On est des durs maintenant après 6 mois 1/2 de voyage autour du monde! Bon la tente je l'ai jetée à la poubelle, on devra en acheter une autre, tant pis. De toute façon pour l'instant les nuits sont trop froides pour camper. Ah oui aussi je voulais te dire: dans les photos tu peux voir un p'tit chien en train de dormir, on l'a appellé "saucisse de toulouse"! Il nous suivait partout pendant 2 jours, c'était trop mignon. Mais on était triste quand on a du le quitter... il voulait même monter dans le bus avec nous... bouh! Bref j'espère que tout va bien à la maison, donne moi de tes nouvelles, promis? A plus. Parrain.

 

PS: je me laisse pousser les cheveux depuis le début du tour du monde, ça commence à être long (surtout pour moi qui ai toujours eu les cheveux courts)... Prochainement, je mettrai une photo ou deux sur le blog pour te montrer ma "crinière" en détail...


Par D.F - Publié dans : WORLD TRIP - Communauté : Tour du Monde
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Dimanche 3 mai 2009
Hi everybody,

BUENOS AIRES

After my lonely week in Uruguay, I met Vladi in Buenos Aires and we both enjoyed being together again during a sunny afternoon in San Telmo, the old city. The same day, we took a 37 hours (!) bus through the pampa, heading south to Rio Gallegos, Patagonia. But it was not finished, cause we needed another 6 hours bus to reach our first stop in southern Argentina: El Calafate.



PATAGONIA!!!

EL CALAFATE

In this town along the Lago Argentina, we couchsurfed in a tiny but so lovely wood house. Analia and her daughter Valentina became for a few days our family. Their three dogs our pets. It was really cool hiking the hills around and talking until late at night. Analia's pizzas, cookies, veggie dishes and of course mate were delicious.





The main reason of our stay in El Calafate was to discover the famous Perito Moreno glacier. We went there with Valeria, another CS friend from Cordoba. Located in a beautiful (but expensive) national park, the glacier was amazing (actually, the Perito Moreno is one of the world's last advancing glacier). And I think with the colours of autumn, it was even more impressive. As usual, the pics illustrate it better than I can explain... Definitely a magic place!








EL CHALTEN

Thanks to another 3 hours bus through desertic sceneries, we continued to the east and reached El Chalten, a little village surrounded by marvelous mountains. I immediately fell in love with El Chalten!!! We were staying in a homey "albergue", in a dorm, and met a lot of interesting travelers (including a bunch of french people). Everyday, I hiked beetween 5 and 7 hours through some wild fairy tale landscapes and the incredible colours of Patagonia. All the time (sometimes in my head, sometimes out loud!) I was singing the "Lord of the Rings" music... I was surprised not to spot a hobbit or two, or Gandalf riding his white horse on the mountains! Vladi came with me twice, to get closer to the Torre and Fitz Roy peaks.








Mountains, waterfalls, valleys, rivers, forests, lakes, glaciers... nothing was missing in this trekking paradise, and everything was colourful. The weather was cold, very windy and capricious, but we were lucky enough to witness the beauty of Patagonia beetween the clouds. "Lloma del Plegue Tumbago, Lago de los Tres, cerros Torre & Fitz Roy" will stay forever in my mind... Back in the evening in our beloved "albergue Patagonia", Vladi cooked almost every night dishes such as "Tartiflette" and "Spaghetti Bolognaise", and we spent hours watching the wind and the rain, while drinking some hot mate...




TIERRA DEL FUEGO!!!

USHUAÏA


After the wonders of Patagonia, we took 3 other buses (4 hours + 3 hours + 13 hours, not including a night spent iin a bus station!) to go to one of the southernmost city in the world: Ushuaïa through (I can't help but thinking about my hero, Nicolas Hulot, sorry!). The last 100 km through Tierra del Fuego were amazing (the Garibaldi pass), the bus was driving slow because of the snow and the slippery road, so we had time to watch the crazy landscapes. OK I must tell you here that we had some problems when crossing the chilean border on the bus, just before the entrance of the Magellan detroit. We had some fruits in our little backpack, and it was strictly forbidden, so we had to pay, listen, a 150 euros fine! I just want to say FUCK CHILE... but let's forget about that and come back to our adventures in Tierra del Fuego, Argentina.



If we had felt the end of autumn in Patagonia, in Ushuaïa winter welcame us with cold temperatures and heavy snow falls. I was happy like a child! Indeed the last time I saw snow was 4 years ago, skiing in the french mountains. In Ushuaïa we found another nice place (Cruz del Sur) and stayed 5 days. The city is surrounded by mountains and situated along the Beagle Canal. Here you're not far from the Cap Horn, and the next stop is Antartica! It was a very strange feeling to be here, almost at the end of the world...







With Vladi, we did a short hike in the snowy mountain just behind the city, and the next day I went alone further to dive in the snow and to approach the Martial glacier. For our last day, Vladi enjoyed staying in the warm library of our youth hostel, and I went hiking (again!) in the Tierra del Fuego national park with a CS friend from Poland, Radek. CS members are everywhere! The park was very wild and desolated, the colours once again spectacular, and the weather so cold! Brrr... We spotted some ducks, curious hawks, and fearless rabbits but only a few crazy hikers like us! Great!










SALTA

Scared by a return journey to Buenos Aires by bus (50 hours), we took a plane instead. Curious or really weird: it was cheaper! Then an 18 hours bus was necessary to reach from BA the northwest of Argentina. I guess you have understood that to travel in South America, you have to get used to endless long distance buses! In Salta, we were happy to wear again T-shirts and flip-flaps and to forget about rainy coats. We stayed 4 days, waiting for the bus to San Pedro de Atacama (Chile), and couchsurfed at Maximiliano's place. Thanks to him, we met the local CS community and some fellow travelers, cause we were invited the first night to a good "asado" (barbecue).



We enjoyed resting in the nearby San Martin park, visiting the historical center with its colourful churches, and climbing the "cerro San Bernardo". I also took the opportunity of updating my blog, as you can read! And now, our next stops are... CHILE & BOLIVIA... See you later!




IN FRENCH FOR THEO

Coucou filleul! C'est un parrain un peu fatigué mais super heureux qui t'écrit du nord de l'Argentine. Après le bout du monde africain il y a quelques mois, je reviens en effet du bout du monde sud-américain! J'ai traversé des paysages extraordinaires (comme dans le Seigneur des Anneaux), lutté contre le froid (et contre des trolls des montagnes), gravi des sommets (où j'ai rencontré Gandalf et un nain nommé Gimli), plongé dans la neige, randonné des heures durant... bref c'était génial! La Patagonie et la Terre de Feu sont des régions du sud de l'Argentine vraiment très belles et sauvages, j'ai adoré! Pour toi, les vacances de Pâques sont terminées, j'espère que tu t'es bien amusé. Dis à maman que j'attends les photos du tournoi international poussins de Merville... et t'as intérêt à me raconter ça en détail dans un email, OK? Bon j'te laisse, je pars au Chili, un nouveau pays! Bisous et à plus. Parrain.

Par D.F - Publié dans : WORLD TRIP - Communauté : Tour du Monde
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Ch'ti guitarist...

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Picture of the day

Piece of journey

       Little dog - Bulgaria


        Bell cows - France
 
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